AUBERGINE AND PEPPER SALAD

INTRODUCTION

Caponata is one of the signature dishes of Sicily. It evolved from a dish favored by sailors where the cooked vegetables acquired at port were added to savory biscuits seasoned with vinegar and sugar. Today there are a myriad of recipes - we particularly like the version below where roasted peppers are added to the dish. It takes time to make a good caponata but it is such a versatile dish it is worth making the effort. Generally known as an antipasto it is also good in the height of summer when accompanied with good bread and a young, well bodied red wine and served as a single course dish. If there is any left over it is an excellent accompaniment to grilled meats - try it with grilled calves liver. As a vegetarian alternative for an informal supper party with friends serve with peperonata alla Siciliana and fagioli all"olio. Follow with fresh fruit.

INGREDIENTS

Stage 1 ingredients
2 large red sweet bell peppers
1 medium sized plastic bag
2 large round aubergines/eggplants, preferably the violet skinned variety from Sicily
4 - 6 inner stalks of celery
fine salt


Stage 2 ingredients
sufficient best quality Olive Oil to fry the aubergines
1 small red onion
3 - 4 tablespoons of best quality Olive Oil

2 anchovy fillets in oil

2 tablespoons of salted capers

green olives to yield 60 - 70 g (circa 2 1/2 oz) when unpitted

4 tablespoons of raisins

3 - 4 tablespoons of home made passato

fine sea salt, to taste

freshly ground pepper, to taste

2 Tablespoons of red wine vinegar

1 Tablespoon of granulated sugar

INSTRUCTIONS

Stage 1 cooking instructions

Turn the grill/broiler to maximum and place the peppers under the grill to char. Turn from time to time, and when sufficiently charred (circa 20- 25minutes), remove and place in a plastic bag. Tie the bag at the top, and leave for a minimum of forty five minutes and a maximum of two hours. 

Meanwhile wash and dry the aubergines. Slice and cut into circa 1 cm (less than 1/2 inch) cubes. Purge the prepared aubergines of their bitter juices by placing in a colander over a bowl or a sink and sprinkle well with salt. Leave for a minimum of forty five minutes and a maximum of two hours. 

Using only the tender part of the celery heart, cut the stalks into 1 cm pieces and where the stalks are wide divide into one or two strips. Bring a saucepan of well salted water to the boil, add the celery and boil for circa 5 minutes or until the celery is just tender, but NOT over cooked. Drain well and put to one side.

Stage 2 cooking instructions

Rinse the cubes of aubergines to remove any salt and bitter juices and place on kitchen paper to absorb any excess water. 

Under a medium flame heat some oil (best quality) in a large non-stick pan. When hot add a batch of the cubed aubergines and cook well for 10 - 15 minutes, or until almost fully cooked, stirring well from time to time. Do NOT allow the aubergines to stick to the pan. Place a number of sheets of kitchen paper in a large bowl. When the aubergines are done, use a slotted spoon and place them in the bowl. Discard the remaining oil and clean the pan. 

Meanwhile take the cooled peppers out of the bag. Discard the skins and the inners (but retain the juices) and slice the flesh into circa 1 cm strips. Put to one side. 

Peel, coarsely slice and finely chop the red onion with a mezzaluna. Put to one side. 

Place the salted capers in a small sieve, place over a bowl and run water through the capers for at least five minutes to ensure all the preserving salt is removed. Drain and put to one side. 

Pit, wash and drain the olives. Cut each olive lengthwise into two. Put to one side. 

Heat the oil (best quality) in the cleaned pan under a medium flame. Add the anchovy fillets, stirring well until they dissolve. Add the onions and saute until the onions become translucent. 

Add the prepared capers, olives, raisons and celery and stir well. Cook for about 5 minutes or until the raisons swell. Add the passato and salt and pepper to taste. Stir well. 

Add the cooked aubergines and the prepared peppers and their juices. Stir gently but well. 

In small bowl add the red wine vinegar to the sugar and mix well. Dribble the mixture over the cooking vegetables. 

Cook for a further few minutes until all the liquid is fully absorbed. 

Taste for seasoning and empty into a serving bowl. Let the dish cool. Serve at room temperature.

COMMENTS

Caponata should be made only in the height of summer - the three main vegetables (the aubergines/eggplants, peppers and celery) must be ripe and cooked to the tender or al dente stage. Nothing should be crisp in this dish. 

Always use capers preserved in salt and unpitted green olives; their flavor is far superior to those preserved in vinegar and olives which are pitted.

The dish benefits from the use of best quality Olive Oil.

The time factor between stage 1 and stage 2 should not exceed two hours.

Caponata can be made the day before intended use and kept in the refrigerator. If, perchance, any of the three main vegetables are a little crisp allowing the dish to stand for 24 hours in the refrigerator will ensure the vegetables soften a little. Always bring to room temperature before eating.

POTATOES COOKED IN SAFFRON

INTRODUCTION

Few things on earth are kinder to you than the common potato. Mostly water - around 77- 78 per cent - potatoes are also jam-packed with Vitamins C and B, fibre and protein, in a naturally packaged starch that is easily digestible: they get most of their bad press because the way they are cooked. Enter a handful of recipes such as this one where the potato is married with olive oil. This glorious dish hailing from Sicily is flavored with saffron, garlic, parsley and oregano - it is an excellent accompaniment for all "sweet" flavored meat dishes, e.g. pollo affinocchiato (chicken in fennel sauce).Buon appetito!

INGREDIENTS

1 Kg (2.2 Lbs) of waxy potatoes
3 - 4 cloves of garlic
25 - 30 leaves of flat-leafed parsley
a scant ¼ cup of best quality Olive Oil
1 sprig of fresh oregano
130 mg of saffron powder (a few generous pinches)
¾ cup of warmish water
fine sea salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

INSTRUCTIONS

Peel the potatoes, cut them into even sized chunks of about 4 by 3 by 3 cm (1½ by 1¼ by 1¼ inches) and place in a bowl of water.
Preheat the oven to 190 degrees Celsius/375 degrees Fahrenheit
Peel the garlic and finely chop the garlic and parsley with a mezzaluna.
Over a medium heat, heat the oil (best quality) in a heavy-based large flat casserole (with lid)
Add the chopped garlic and parsley, stir and cook for about 1 - 2 minutes.
Finely chop the fresh oregano with the mezzaluna.
Drain the potatoes and add to the pan - the potatoes should be in one layer only. Add about two pinches of fresh oregano, and salt and pepper to taste. With two forks, turn the potatoes to ensure all sides evenly cook over a low heat for about 5 - 6 minutes.
Dissolve the powdered saffron in the lukewarm water and add to the casserole.
Put the lid on the casserole and transfer to the pre-heated oven.
Cook for circa 15 minutes, remove from the oven and turn the potatoes over to ensure the cooking is even.
Return to the oven and cook for a further circa 15 minutes. With a skewer check the potatoes are cooked - most of the liquid should have been absorbed by the potatoes.
Take the casserole out of the oven and with a slotted spoon remove the potatoes to a serving dish.
If there is any cooking liquid left, reduce on a high heat, stirring frequently, and then spoon over the potatoes.

COMMENTS

It is important the potatoes lie in a single layer in the casserole.

Use only flat-leafed parsley and fresh oregano.

The dish should be served hot - there are few merits in eating it cold.

ALMOND AND LIME CAKE

I associate Italian cakes, and desserts in particular, with the northern Italian city of Turin and the sophisticated cafés round the central piazzas: Turin's specialties are for the sweet toothed. Europe's best chestnuts comes from here - i marroni - and here zabaione was invented when a royal chef accidentally spilled fortified wine into a custard. The fame of the city's chocolatiers was such that the Swiss came to study their art, but they did not stay long enough to master the art of making gianduiotti. But the delights of Turin's fabulous desserts need to be viewed in the cold light of reality: joyous that they are they are riddled with saturated fats. Enter the sophisticated almond cake - lightly moist and with the benefit of a light lime-based glaze. Enjoy with an expresso in the afternoon or a grappa at the end of a dinner party. 

Before starting consider reading Baking cakes.

INGREDIENTS

Stage 1 ingredients

one 220 - 225 mm (8 - 9 inch) spring closing cake tin

greaseproof paper

unfiltered olive oil for greasing the tin

150 g (5 oz) unpeeled whole almonds

130g (4½ oz) white caster sugarzest of one lime

80 g (2.8 oz) plain white flour (type OO preferred)

8 egg whites

½ teaspoon of salt

Stage 2 ingredients

zest of one lime

juice of ½ large lime

80 g (2.8 oz)+ icing sugar

a touch of gin (optional)

INSTRUCTIONS

Stage 1 cooking instructions 

As per baking cakes carefully line the cake tin with greaseproof paper using a pastry brush to lightly apply the olive oil. Put to one side. 

Finely grind the unpeeled whole almonds in a blender and place in a small bowl. Add the caster sugar and mix well. Using a zester, remove the zest of one lime and add to the almond/sugar mixture. Put to one side. 

Turn on the oven to 170 degrees Centigrade/ 340 degrees Fahrenheit: ensure the freestanding internal oven thermometer is visible.

Wipe the inside of the mixer bowl and the balloon whisk with a piece of kitchen roll which has been dampened with white wine vinegar or cider vinegar. 

Wipe the inside of the mixer bowl and the balloon whisk with a piece of kitchen roll which has been dampened with white wine vinegar or cider vinegar. 

Separate the eggs: be scrupulous and exclude ALL traces of egg yolk and/or egg shell. Place in the mixer bowl 

Add the salt and whip the egg whites (at highest setting) until they form stiff peaks. 

While the egg whites are being whipped, measure out the flour in a bowl and sift several times to include as much air as possible. Put to onside. 

Check the oven has reached the correct temperature and maintains the temperature. 

When the egg whites have formed stiff peaks, remove the mixing bowl from the machine, add a tablespoon of the almond/sugar/lime zest mixture and mix quite well with a knife using cutting movements. Repeat until all the 'almond' mixture has been added. 

Then, likewise with the flour, put a tablespoon of the flour into the sieve, sieve the flour into the mixing bowl and mix using the knife. Repeat until all the flour is used. 

Using the knife and a spatula 'pour' the cake mixture into the prepared cake tin, lightly leveling the mixture with the knife and place in the centre of the pre-heated oven. Put the timer on, and bake for 45 minutes. 

At the end of the 45 minutes period, open the oven, use a wooden skewer and piece the centre of the cake. If the skewer comes up absolutely dry the cake is done. 

Carefully remove all the greaseproof paper, place up-side down on a wire cooling rack and allow to cool for about an hour. 

Stage 2 cooking instructions 

When the cake is cool, turn right-side up and place on a cake dish. 

To make the lime cake glaze weigh out the icing sugar and place in a small pan. Zest the lime and add to the icing sugar. 

Squeeze half of the lime and heat the juice in another pan until it starts to boil. 

Add the hot lime juice to the the icing sugar mixture and mix well using a small wire whisk. If needs be add a little more icing sugar and/or a dash of gin: ensure the glaze reaches a slow pouring consistency. 

Pour the lime glaze on to the top of the cake, ensuring that the glaze does not dribble down the sides. Place in the refrigerator for about 5 - 10 minutes to firm up the glaze, return to room temperature and serve when ready.

COMMENTS

Before starting ensure all ingredients are at room temperature.

 Lightness of hand, high quality ingredients and thoroughness in preparation are the keys to success.

    Use cutting movements when mixing the cake mixture: ONLY use a knife to mix.

    This cake does not readily associate itself with birthday celebrations, but much depends on the sophistication of the celebrant!

    cake keeps quite well in a cake tin for a couple of days: that being said once cut we find it is quickly eaten.

PASTA WITH MEAT SAUCE

INTRODUCTION

This Florentine dish is typical of home cooking; rarely will it be found in a restaurant. Not as rich as a Bolognese sauce it relies on prime quality ingredients and is quite different to a southern Italian sugo. Very much a one course mid week meal ideal for winter months it is not an especially demanding recipe in relation to total hands-on cooking time, but one does have to be in the background keeping an eye on the dish as it cooks. Accompany with a young, robust red wine.

Before starting consider reading Cooking Pasta.

INGREDIENTS

Stage 1 ingredients
10 g (circa 0.4 oz) of dried porcini
water for soaking the porcini

Stage 2 ingredients
300 g (circa ¾ lb) of finely minced steak
3 - 4 chicken livers
1 small red onion
1 small carrot
1 stick of celery
20 - 25 leaves of flat leafed parsley
5 Tablespoons of best quality Olive Oil
2 Tablespoons of double concentrated tomato paste
¼ glass of red wine
5 Tablespoons of porcini soaking liquid
fine sea salt
freshly ground BLACK pepper

500 - 600 g/17.5 - 21 oz of hard spaghetti (e.g. Barilla No.5)

water for cooking the spaghetti

coarse sea salt

2 teaspoons of best quality Olive Oil

INSTRUCTIONS

Stage 1 cooking instructions 

Soak the dried porcini in water for at least 3 hours, or overnight.

Stage 2 cooking instructions 

Peel and finely chop the red onion. Repeat for the carrot and stick of celery. Add the parsley leaves and finely chop with a mezzaluna. This is the battuto/mire-pois. 

Place the oil (best quality) in a large pan and add the battuto/mire-pois. Stir gently and heat from cold over a very low flame for about 15 - 20 minutes or until the onions are translucent, stirring well from time to time. 

Meanwhile remove any gallbladder, etc from the chicken livers and very finely chop. Add to the minced steak. 

Take the soaking porcini, squeeze dry, finely slice and put to one side. Strain and retain the soaking medium. 

When the battuto/mire-pois has cooked, remove all excess oil. Add the minced steak, chicken livers and porcini. Stir well and brown over a low to medium heat for circa 5 minutes. Add the wine and let it bubble away. 

Dissolve the tomato paste in the porcini soaking liquid and add to the pan. Stir well. Add salt and pepper, stir again, bring to the boil and then simmer for about 30 minutes or until tender. The sauce should be thick but still retain some liquid. 

Meanwhile bring a large stock pot of well salted water to the boil. Measure out the pasta. 

When the water is boiling vigorously, add the spaghetti, stir and, when the water has returned to the boil, time the cooking (as per advice on packet). 

Pour a couple of teaspoons of best quality olive oil into the serving dish and put to one side. 

Close to the end of the recommended cooking time for the spaghetti, rescue a few strands with a fork, and taste to see if it is cooked. 

When satisfied that the pasta is ‘al dente’, strain the cooked spaghetti into a colander and shake well to remove all excess water. Empty into the serving dish and toss well in the oil. Add circa 80% of the sauce and toss well. Pour the remainder of the sauce on the pasta and serve immediately. 

COMMENTS

Use high quality steak, trimmed of any fat and minced by your butcher.

Traditionally the battuto/mire-pois is placed in cold best quality olive oil and very slowly fried over a very low flame to ensure the flavor of the oil is absorbed and the battuto/mire-pois does not burn. Under a very low flame this works beautifully.

Dried porcini can include soil and small pieces of grit, so always strain the soaking liquid through a small sieve before using. 

The addition of wine is not traditional but it adds depth of flavor.

A lot of salt and pepper is required for this sauce.

If you make your own or can buy good fresh hand made pici consider substituting for the spaghetti. 

The dish benefits from the addition of freshly grated Parmigiano cheese at table. 

The sauce can be made in advance and re-heated. Retain a tablespoon of porcini soaking liquid for re-heating.

PASTA WITH ARTICHOKES

INTRODUCTION

This is a very delicately flavored dish which can be served either as a one-dish meal or as part of a menu based dinner party. A reasonably simple pasta, making it demands first class ingredients and effective seasoning: congratulate yourself when you master this dish and await the applause from your fellow diners. 

We suggest a lightly chilled Sauvignon white wine to accompany. 

Before starting we suggest you read Cooking Pasta and Preparing and cooking vegetables.

INGREDIENTS

6 fresh plump Italian violet artichokes
4 - 5 Tablespoons of best quality Olive Oil
1 large clove of garlic
1 large red onion
1 - 2 glasses of dry white wine
fine sea salt
freshly ground pepper
300 - 350 grams/10.5 - 12.5 oz of hard spaghetti (e.g. Barilla No. 5)
coarse sea salt for cooking the spaghetti
1 teaspoon of best quality Olive Oil
freshly grated mature pecorino romano cheese

INSTRUCTIONS

Prepare the artichokes as per Preparing and cooking vegetables. 

Peel the large clove of garlic, cut into 3 pieces and put to one side. 

Peel the red onion, coarsely slice and then finely chop with a mezzaluna. 

Heat the oil (best quality) over a moderate heat. Gently fry the garlic pieces on all sides until they are golden. Remove with a slotted spoon and discard. Add the red onion and gently fry until translucent. 

Meanwhile, using a colander, drain the prepared artichokes and dry on kitchen paper. Depending on size, cut a prepared artichoke into 10 - 14 pieces and add to the pan. Repeat for all the artichokes. 

Gently fry for 5 - 10 minutes, turning each piece over to ensure even cooking. If needs be remove any excess oil. 

Add the dry white wine, salt and pepper to taste. Reduce to a simmer, cover, and cook for 20 - 35 minutes. Taste for seasoning. 

Bring a large stock pot of salted water to a vigorous boil. 

Weigh the pasta and add to the water. Once the water has returned to a vigorous boil, time the cooking. Stir frequently during the cooking process. 

When the spaghetti is al-dente, drain into a colander and shake well to remove all the water. Pour a small amount of oil (best quality) into the serving dish. Add the cooked pasta and carefully toss. 

Add 90% of the artichoke sauce and toss the pasta well. Put the remaining sauce on top of the dish. 

Serve immediately, adding freshly grated pecorino romano at table.

COMMENTS

This is a delicate sauce - the ingredients must balance and enhance the flavor of the artichokes.

The artichokes used are 'Italian type' artichokes (the variety Violetta precoce is ideal): do not use globe artichokes or Jerusalem artichokes.

The artichokes should be sliced quite thinly - the sauce's cooking period greatly depends on the thickness of the artichoke slices and the freshness of the vegetables. Only consider making this sauce when artichokes are in season. If they have been cold-stored it is a toss up whether the sauce will work even after the artichokes are cooked for as long as 50 - 60 minutes.

The sauce should be clinging to the cooked artichokes when it is tossed in the spaghetti.

This pasta benefits from the addition at table of freshly grated pecorino romano. A cheese made from sheep's milk, mature pecorino makes a pleasant alternative to the more widely available grana cheeses made from cow's milk, of which the most famous is Parmigiano Reggiano. Always use freshly grated cheese, but remember pecorino romano has a sharper, more intense flavor than Parmigiano.

OVEN BAKED ARTICHOKES

INTRODUCTION

For fans of Italian-style artichokes this recipe is a must - it is an incredibly easy dish to make. Artichokes and white fish are wonderful together. Consider serving this dish with monkfish in white wine or simply a whole fish baked in salt, and accompany with a well chilled, deep flavored, non-brassy white wine: consider a Roero Arneis from the Langhe, Italy. The recipe is written in two stages for purposes of clarity, but it is just as easy to cook in a single stage. 

INGREDIENTS

Stage 1 ingredients
10 - 12 large artichokes
2 lemons
water

Stage 2 ingredients
best quality Olive Oil
fine sea salt
freshly ground pepper
water

INSTRUCTIONS

Stage 1 cooking instructions 
Prepare the artichokes in the same manner as outlined in Preparing and cooking vegetables, BUT retain about 2 centimeters (circa 1 inch) of each stalk, carving the stalks into a point. In cross section the prepared artichokes should look like elongated triangles. Cut each artichoke into fours and place in a large bowl of water which has been acetified by the addition of the juice of two squeezed lemons and the squeezed lemon halves.

Stage 2 cooking instructions
Heat the oven to 170 degrees Celsius/ 350 degrees Fahrenheit. 
Remove the artichokes quarters from the acetified water, dry them in clean kitchen paper and place them in a single layer on a baking dish. 
Place some oil (best quality) in a small bowl and, using a pastry brush, 'paint' the artichokes with the oil. Season with salt and pepper, dribble a little more oil over the vegetables and then add water to a depth of no more than ¼ cm/1/10th inch deep. 
Place in the pre-heated oven. Cook for ¾ - 1 hour, or until tender, turning the artichokes every 15 minutes. Top up the water level if, and when, required. 
When cooked, remove with a slotted spoon, place on a serving dish and serve immediately. 

COMMENTS

The cooking time very much depends on the size of the artichoke used. The vegetables should fit neat and snuggly into the baking tin. Very little cooking medium should remain when the vegetables are tender/cooked. It is important to top up the water during baking rather than pour a large amount of water into the baking dish which might prove excess to requirements.

It is imperative freshly harvested, firm fleshed artichokes are used. Any dryness or ´flabbiness' of the outside leaves generally indicates a rotten heart. If purchasing the vegetables, refrigerate, use on a same day basis, and allow for a small amount of wastage. Outside Italy, Italian type artichokes can be found in food markets and in Italian greengrocers/delicatessens.

In food markets in Italy it is possible to find artichokes prepared as described in stage one. If bought this way it is imperative they are used on a same day basis.

Consider wearing gloves when preparing the artichokes to obviate staining of hands (though with the use of a nail brush the staining disappears).

If stage-cooking the dish, prepare the artichokes no longer than 4 hours in advance.

Globe artichokes (the base, only) can be used in this recipe but a certain amount of flavor derived from the leaves of the Italian styled artichokes will be missing.

ORANGES IN BRANDY

INTRODUCTION

Originally a Sicilian dish this dessert now is found all over Italy, though only oranges from Sicily will generally be used. Contrast and diversity have found an enduring home on the island and no single aspect of Sicilian culture better reflects its ability to distill harmony out of its diverse elements than its food: Sicilian recipes reflect their composite origins. And it is important to retain this aspect of harmony when increasingly the traveler cannot fail to observe the contrasts: alongside some of the most exquisite architecture the world has known there has grown up some of the worst speculation in Europe.

But to return to harmony and culinary matters. This is a simple dish to prepare - ideal for winter months, it demands first class ingredients and a marinating period of 18 - 24 hours. A wonderful, light dessert, it rounds off a dinner party with style.

INGREDIENTS

6 large, juicy oranges

4 Tablespoons of Sucre de Canne

6 - 7 Tablespoons of Cognac/brandy

INSTRUCTIONS

Using a sharp knife, score the peel of each orange and remove and discard the peel and pith. Separate the orange segments. Cut off the outer and inner part of the segment to remove any remaining pith, remove any seeds, and peel away the segment'smembrane. Place in a medium sized ceramic or glass dish and repeat for all the segments.

Add the Sucre de Canne and the Cognac, toss the oranges carefully and gently, cover with cling film and place in the refrigerator.

When ready to serve, bring to room temperature, decant into a glass serving dish and serve.

 

COMMENTS

    Sucre de Canne is a splendid French product used for all kinds of fruit based desserts and in the bottling of fruit. If not in France look for it in a good delicatessen.

    Use a quite good non-supermarket branded cognac, perhaps not the brand you would serve as an after diner drink, but one with roundness and depth of flavour.

    This is very "moorish" desert - if you have discerning guests consider increasing the quantities.

BAKED BEETROOT SALAD

INTRODUCTION

Beetroot has had a terrible press over the years, and not surprisingly so - pickled in malt vinegar it must be one of the most unappetizing vegetable/salad dishes in Western Europe. However, buying beetroot in its uncooked form for this dish or growing a row of beets has much merit especially if you plant the heirloom variety 'Bull's blood' which boasts rich red/purple leaves to brighten the back yard during dreary winter months. This is a very simple, 'sweet' winter salad, ideal when served at room temperature with grilled meats and roasted vegetables - try it with cipolle al forno and patate con rosmarino. 

Before starting consider reading Preparing salads.

INGREDIENTS

6 - 7 small tomedium-sized beetroots
aluminum foil/kitchen paper
best quality Olive Oil
a few squeezes of fresh lemon
fine sea salt
freshly milled pepper

INSTRUCTIONS

Preheat the oven to 180 °Celsius/ 350° Fahrenheit
Taking each raw beet, remove the leaf part, trim the tap root, wash and dry well. Wrap each beet in aluminum foil and place in the pre-heated oven. Leave for 1¾ - 2 hours, turning from time to time.
Alternatively, score each beetroot pole to pole, wrap each in a sheet of clean kitchen paper, place in the microwave oven and cook for 6- 10 minutes (or until tender) under full power.
When cooked, take from the oven/microwave and remove the aluminum foil/kitchen paper. Leave to cool on one side. 
When the rest of the meal is prepared, peel the cooked beets, slice quite thinly and place in a serving bowl. Sprinkle lightly with a couple of teaspoons of oil (best quality), a squeeze or so of fresh lemon, salt and pepper and toss well. Taste for seasoning and if content, remove any excess staining from the bowl with a clean sheet of kitchen paper and serve immediately.

COMMENTS

The beets are best served at room temperature, but once peeled and sliced they cool quickly. Let only about 4 or 5 hours lapse between cooking and eating and do NOT refrigerate at any stage.

ROAST LOIN OF PORK

INTRODUCTION

In the early decades of the 1400's the Union of Florence was briefly enacted between the Roman Catholic and Eastern Orthodox churches. At one of the many banquets held to celebrate the Union a joint of roast pork was served to the Greek bishops. To express their unanimous approval of the dish they exclaimed "Aristos, aristos!" meaning, "Good, very good!". The term stuck and in Tuscany arista refers to the pig's loin with ribs still attached, cut as a single piece. The dish demands top quality, free-range pork which is not always easy to procure: we thus have developed our own interpretation. The recipe which follows should be viewed as a guide, rather than definitive: much will depend on the quality of the loin of pork. Traditionally the dish is served with fagioli all'uccelletto and pane toscano. 

Consider accompanying with a bottle of Morellino di Scansano from western Tuscany, Italy. 

INGREDIENTS

Stage 1 ingredients

1½ kilos/ 3.3 lbs of prime loin of pork on the bone

fine sea salt - a teaspoon or so

3 large cloves of garlic

4 - 5 fresh sage leaves

2 medium sized sprigs of rosemary

a sprig of thyme

1 teaspoon of mixed coloured peppercorns, coarsely milled

1 teaspoon of best quality Olive Oil

string

INSTRUCTIONS

Stage 1 cooking instructions 

Trim the loin of pork of any excess fat but retain the fat and the skin on the top of the loin. 

Turn the joint upside down and using a sharp knife make incisions alongside the ribs. Rub the pork with fine sea salt and put to one side. 

Peel the garlic and finely slice. Remove the mid leaves from the sage leaves and coarsely chop. Detach the leaves from the sprigs of rosemary and thyme. Use a mezzaluna and finely chop all the ingredients. Add the coarsely milled peppercorns and empty into a small bowl. Add a little oil (best quality) to bind the ingredients. This is the marinade/stuffing. 

Rub a small amount of marinade/stuffing in between the incisions made along the ribs of pork and on the end pieces. 

Truss with string, place in a roasting tin, cover with foil and place the roasting tin in the refrigerator for 12 - 24 hours.

 

Stage 2 cooking instructions 

Take the prepared pork in its roasting tray out of the refrigerator and bring to room temperature. 

Pre-heat the oven to 175 degrees Celsius/ 350 degrees Fahrenheit. 

Uncover the pork, place in the oven and cook for about 1 hour 45 minutes, or until cooked. Do not turn the joint of meat. 

Take the pork out of the oven and place on a chopping board. 

Let it rest for about 10 minutes, remove all string and seoarate it from the rib bones, then carve it and replace it on the rib bones as if it were still whole. Serve at once, with the crackling on one side. 

MEDIEVIAL PEPPER SOUP

INTRODUCTION

In the 15th century the woods of Inpruneta, in the hills near Florence, provided the charcoal used by the pot and earthenware makers of the region and Inpruneta was the place where most of the firing ovens were located. Young apprentices were usually given the task of keeping an eye on the ovens during the night, and peposo was the traditional dish they left to cook overnight so that they could eat it for breakfast.

The name of the dish comes from the large amounts of pepper (pepe) which were added to cover the taste of slightly spoiled meat in medieval times, when no refrigeration was available.

Meat, garlic, tomatoes and water, with liberal quantities of pepper and peppercorns, were put in an earthenware pot which was placed near the mouth of the pottery oven, where the heat was gentle, and were left to cook. Today the dish is slow-cooked much in the same manner on the top of a hob.  The dish, while strongly flavoured, is not as hot as a curry and makes a very good party dish served with spinaci all'aceto balsamico and good bread. Wine to accompany should be red, robust and strong. We recommend a Barbaresco from Piedmont, north west Italy or a good Cote de Beaune from Burgundy, France.  Before starting consider reading Cooking stews.

INGREDIENTS1 Kg (2.2 Lbs) Rump of beef

4 Tablespoons best quality olive oil

3 medium ripe tomatoes

6 large cloves of garlic

water

fine sea salt to taste

1 heaped Tablespoon peppercorns (mixed colours)

1 heaped Tablespoon freshly ground black pepper

INSTRUCTIONS

Remove any excess fat away from the meat and then cut the meat into cubes (about 3 by 2 by 2 cm or 1¼ by ¾ by ¾ inches).

Place the tomatoes in a bowl and add freshly boiled water to cover. After 60 seconds, drain and add cold water to cover. Peel the tomatoes, cut into eights and put to one side.

Coarsely chop the garlic. Put the oil (best quality) in a deep pan, add the garlic and cook over a low fire until golden.

Raise the heat, add the meat to the pan and cook for four to five minutes, stirring to brown the pieces on all sides. Remove any excess oil.

Add the tomatoes and enough water to cover the meat. Add sea salt to taste, all the freshly ground pepper and the peppercorns, (part) cover the pan with the lid, lower the fire to the absolute minimum so the dish simmers very slowly, and then forget it for about 3 hours (or until the meat is tender) except for occasional stirring which should be frequent during the last 15 - 20 minutes. 

The stew should not be liquid nor soggy; if after 3 hours this is still the case, increase the heat to evaporate any excess liquid, but be careful to stir well in order to avoid the stew sticking to the bottom of the pan. 

CHICKEN SOUP AND EMMER WHEAT SOUP

INTRODUCTION

Minestra is a word that resonates more deeply within the Italian soul than almost any other in the language. When Italy was a poor country, minestra was for most of its people the whole meal: the word was synonymous with survival. But this IS a glorious soup: when served with good bread it makes a very warming dish in winter months. It closely resembles minestra di farro but uses prosciutto crudo and oregano and skips the addition of freshly grated parmesan cheese at table. The dish benefits from being made in advance and re-heated.

Wine served with this soup should be red and young.

INGREDIENTS

Stage 1 ingredients
110 g (4 oz) farro
water for soaking the farro
300 g (10.5 oz) dried chickpeas
water for soaking the chickpeas

Stage 2 ingredients
1 medium sized red onion
2 small sticks of celery
4 x 1 cm "cube" (1.6 x 0.4 inches) of prosciutto crudo (Parma ham)
3 - 4 Tablespoons of best quality Olive Oil
1 L (1.75 pints) broth
½ L (0.85 pints) water
3 - 4 Tablespoons of chickpea liquid, or as required
2 - 3 small sprigs of fresh oregano

fine sea salt

freshly ground pepper

best quality Olive Oil

INSTRUCTIONS

Stage 1 cooking instructions 

Place the chickpeas in a ceramic pot with 8 - 10 times their volume of water. Soak and leave overnight. 

Place the emmer wheat in a pot, wash well with water and soak for a minimum of 12 and a maximum of 24 hours. 

Stage 2 cooking instructions 

The following day bring the chickpeas slowly to a boil and simmer for two - three hours, or until tender. Ensure the chickpeas do NOT boil dry. Drain into a colander sitting on a large bowl. Reserve the liquid and put to one side. 

Peel the onion and remove any 'strings' from the celery. Coarsely slice the onion and celery and finely chop with a mezzaluna. Remove any excess fat from the prosciutto crudo, finely slice into matchsticks and add to the onion and celery mix. This is the battuto/mire-pois. 

Heat the oil (best quality) in a large non-stick pot under a medium heat, add the battuto/mire-pois and stir well. Cook for 5 - 6 minutes stirring frequently until the onions are translucent. 

Snip the oregano leaves, discard the stalks. Put to one side. 

Drain the emmer wheat and add to the pot. Stir well. Add the oregano and again stir well. Add the stock and circa 50% of the water. Stir well. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer and cook over a VERY low heat for 1½ - 2 hours or until the emmer wheat is tender stirring well from time to time. Add additional water as required during the cooking period. 

Meanwhile take the chickpeas, empty into a blender and add sufficient chickpea liquid to ensure the chickpeas can be reduced to a thick, smooth purée. 

When the emmer wheat is tender, add the chickpea purée to the soup and stir well. Depending on the density of the soup add additional chickpea liquid. Stir well. Taste for seasoning and add salt and pepper to taste. 

Cook for a further 10 - 15 minutes, stirring frequently. 

Empty into a tureen and serve hot. 

At table ladle out the soup into individual dishes - diners season their soup by dribbling oil (best quality) over it. Serve with good bread. 

COMMENTS

Emmer wheat (also known as farro) is readily available in Northern and Central Italy but there may be difficulties sourcing it in other countries. First try your local Italian deli and then your local health food shop. Treat it like basmati rice both in its storage and in its initial preparation - some emmer wheat can be very dusty and thus must be washed well and, to ensure the grains do not stick to the pot, soaking it for at least 12 hours is recommended.

Always use a ceramic pot when cooking beans. To ensure the pot does not crack, remember to bring it slowly to the boil - we place a riser on top of a hot plate to further slow the initial heating process. 

The emmer has a tendency to stick to the bottom of the non-stick pot, no matter how low the fire is. Be careful; the suggested manner is to cook the soup in a ceramic pot, but only do this if you have the time to sit by the cooker and stir, stir, stir..."Stir and stir again" are indeed the watchwords for this dish.

The cooking period for both the chickpeas and the emmer wheat greatly depends on freshness. If you know the emmer wheat you are using is very fresh use half the quantities of broth and water at the outset, topping up as needs be during the cooking process.

Use an end piece of prosciutto crudo - invariably these can be found in deli's at reduced prices.

Best quality Olive Oil provides depth of flavor; this is particularly apparent when it is added as a dressing at table.

This is a soup that is best left to cook in the background whilst doing other work in the kitchen - it is not a demanding recipe but it does need a eye kept on it from time to time.

If making it in advance, save some of the reserved chickpea liquid and add a few tablespoons when reheating. Taste for seasoning.

RISOTTO WITH SAUSAGES

      When making a risotto with meat, the question of what kind of broth to use, and the quality of the broth becomes even more important than for other risotti.

Cooking technique can always be learnt (part of this site’s “mission”...) but what ends up distinguishing a good cook from an excellent one is instinct, nurtured by experience and common sense.



So before embarking on this recipe taste your stock and decide whether it will marry well with the flavour of the sausages – remember you can always intensify the flavour of the broth by further boiling or dilute it with more water!

INGREDIENTS

2 Tablespoons of best quality Olive oil

3 Italian sausages

1 large red onion

2 glasses of dry white wine

300 grams of Carnaroli rice

1 bottle (750 ml) plus of broth

fine sea salt, to tastefreshly ground BLACK pepper, to taste

freshly grated Parmesan (2 – 3 Tablespoons)

INSTRUCTIONS

Remove the skin of the sausages and mash using a fork. Place in a non-stick pan over a low to medium heat and gently cook until the sausages have released most of their fat. Remove with a slotted spoon to a plate lined with clean kitchen paper to absorb the remaining fat.

Meanwhile peel and finely slice the red onion with a sharp knife. Heat a large, heavy based, non-stick pan over a low to medium fire, add the oil and slowly cook the onion until is translucent, stirring from time to time. Remove any excess oil.

When the onions are translucent add the part cooked sausages to the pan, stir and gently brown.

Measure out the rice, add to the pan, and let it “toast” whilst gently stirring. Add the white wine and simmer (uncovered) until the wine is almost all absorbed, stirring all the time.

Uncork the bottle of stock pour into a saucepan, lightly season it and bring to a gentle boil. Add a ladle or so to the risotto mixture, stir, reduce to a gentle simmer and level the rice mixture. Wait until the liquid is absorbed before adding more stock, each time stirring carefully and levelling the rice.

Keep an eye on the cooking process and near the end a very watchful eye! Taste for seasoning and to check the stage of cooking; increasingly there should be very little 'bite' left in a rice grain.

When there is only a little 'bite' left in a rice grain stir carefully on a continuous basis. When the spoon begins to leave a clear wake behind it as it is drawn through the risotto this is the sign the rice is ALMOST cooked. The rice is expanding and it should be developing a level of 'creaminess' with each full stir. Taste again for seasoning and texture; there should now be very little 'bite' left in a grain. The risotto is cooked when the texture is velvety but each grain is still firm to the bite AT THE CENTRE, and all the liquid is absorbed.

Take the risotto off the heat, add the Parmesan, stir and cover the pan for 2 – 3 minutes. Turn out into a cold serving dish (to arrest the cooking process) and serve immediately.

Diners should eat risotto with a fork from a soup plate.

COMMENTS

    Prefer carnaroli to arborio rice. Similarly use fine slices of red onion rather than onion finely chopped using a mezzaluna: the slices of onion merge with the minced sausages in a more pleasing manner.

    Italian pork sausages are often sold in supermarkets and delicatessens under their generic name. Alternatively when in Italy go to a butcher, buy sausages in lengths of three or four and ask that they be vacuum packed. In either situation checkthe sausages do not contain fennel seeds or flakes of chilli.

    As for all risottos the key to success is to find the level of heat which is right for the size of pan used, to gently stir all the pan to ensure the entire dish is evenly cooked and near the end of the cooking process to taste and taste again.

GARLIC BEEF STEW

INTRODUCTION

This hearty stew hails from Catalonia, Spain. It is a favourite stew for winter months.

Long cooking of whole cloves of garlic dramatically softens their taste - all harshness vanishes and the aftertaste becomes rounded and quite sweet.

In Spain, meats with sauces are generally served in their own individual casserole dishes with no accompaniment: Spaniards rely on the first course to provide them with vegetables and use bread to absorb the sauce. It is a good rule of thumb for this dish, though baked yams or mashed potatoes also make an excellent accompaniment.

Partner with a well rounded red wine

INGREDIENTS

1 kilo (2.2.lbs) rump steak/good quality stewing steak

1 medium sized red onion

1/2 small carrot

1/2 stick of celery

20 - 30 leaves of flat-leafed parsley

2 - 3 Tablespoons of best quality Olive Oil

3 - 4 sprigs of fresh thyme

1 or more large heads of garlic

flour for lightly dusting the cubed meat

1 1/2 - 2 cups of red wine

a little water, if required

2 whole cloves

fine sea salt

freshly milled pepper

INSTRUCTIONS

Peel the onion, wash and/or scrap the carrot and celery stick and coarsely chop. Add the parsley leaves and using a mezzaluna finely chop. This is the battuto/mire-pois.

Heat the oil (best quality) in a heavy based pan over a low to medium heat. Add the battuto/mire-pois and stir well. Cook for five or six minutes until translucent, stirring from time to time. Towards the end of the frying add the thyme and stir well.

Peel the garlic and leave whole. Use only large cloves - if needs be use the larger cloves from 2 heads of garlic. Add the whole cloves to the pan and gently fry for a couple of minutes, stirring as required. Meanwhile, remove any fat from the beef and cut into cubes (about 3 by 2 by 2cm or 1¼ by ¾ by ¾ inches).

Place the meat in a colander and drench with flour over the sink. Turn the cubes to ensure an even, light coating and shake off all excess flour.

When the battuto/mire-pois is translucent, remove any excess oil, add the beef cubes lightly coated in flour and brown well on all sides. Add up to 2 cups of red wine (to almost cover the meat), stir well to remove any encrustations of flour/beef which may have caught and add the seasoning - the 2 whole cloves, fine sea salt and freshly milled pepper to taste.

Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to simmer and part cover. Cook for circa 2 hours or until the meat is tender. From time to time check there is sufficient cooking liquid. If the stew is becoming dry or is 'catching', add a little water and stir well.

Circa 10 - 15 minutes before the end of the cooking period, start stirring. With a wooden spoon stir the entire dish regularly until the meat is tender and the sauce clings to the meat. Be gentle but effective when stirring to avoid bruising the whole cloves of garlic.

Taste for seasoning and amend if necessary. Place in a serving dish and serve immediately.

COMMENTS

    Use large cloves of garlic - if needs use more than one head of garlic. Small cloves disintegrate during the cooking process. If you are a garlic fan use more than the equivalent of one head. The long cooking process softens and “sweetens” the garlic. “Stir and stir again” are the watch words for this dish - stirring at regular intervals and altering the position of the lid between closed, part covered, barely covered to uncovered is essential for success. Continual stirring is required near the end of the cooking process to ensure the sauce amalgamates well.

    If you have a riser, once the pan has been brought to a boil place the riser over the hot plate, reduce to a simmer, leave the lid of the pan slightly ajar and slowly cook for up to 1¾ hours, checking the progress of the cooking from time to time. Then, circa 10 - 15 minutes before the end of the cooking period, start to stir. This is the cheat's way of making a stew and only works if you cook over gas. The riser slows down the cooking process and obviates the need to alter the position of the lid of the pan on a regular basis. Get to know how your riser alters the cooking process and enjoy more hands-free cooking! Increasingly we find a riser essential for cooking all stews and some curries, especially pork curries. It is, of course, indispensable if you wish to make good coffee using the hotplate and an old fashioned espresso pot.

ITALIAN FOODS AND DESERT

                             Welcome to the world food blog , today we going to be starting with italian dishes . i hope you enjoy this .                                     


                                          CHICKEN LIVER PATE ON TOAST
Serves 8-10

                     
      Almost every Tuscan cook has their own variation for crostini ai fegatini- depending on the quantities used the fresh rosemary and Vin Santo add depth of flavor to the dish. Slightly stale Tuscan bread is used as the base for the pâté. The pâté itself can be made well ahead of time, frozen or refrigerated and then brought to room temperature thus allowing the crostini to be assembled with ease at the last moment, or the crostini can be served warm. They are a great starter for a dinner party, or as part of a celebration buffet.

A good Chianti makes an excellent accompaniment, but the crostini are equally enjoyable with a Campari and soda or a Gin and tonic. 

INGREDIENTS

300 g/10½ oz chicken livers

1 small red onion

2 Tablespoons of best quality olive oil, preferably Tuscan & from that year's cold pressing

sprig of rosemary

¼ cup of Vin Santo (industrial quality)

fine sea salt to taste

freshly ground pepper

25 g salted capers (a scant 1 oz)

slices of Tuscan bread

a further ¼ cup of Vin Santo (industrial quality)

INSTRUCTIONS

Trim the chicken livers removing all traces of the gall bladder. Rinse under the tap and leave to drain. 

Peel the onion, and finely slice. 

Put the oil in a pan; add the onion and fry (gently) for about 5 - 7 minutes or until translucent, stirring as required. 

Add the chicken livers and the leaves from spring of rosemary. 

Gently brown the livers on both sides, and then add the Vin Santo, sea salt and freshly ground pepper. Cover and simmer for 10 minutes or until the livers are tender, turning the livers from time to time. 

Rinse the capers well, drain and dry on kitchen paper. Add to the livers and cook for a few more minutes. 

At this stage there should be about 2 tablespoons of liquid left. 

Take the pan off the heat, cool slightly and then pass the contents of the pan through a Mouli legumes/Food Mill into a bowl. 

If assembling the crostini later in the day, refrigerate the pâté and bring to room temperature an hour or so before use. Alternatively, if preparing in advance for a buffet party, place in a plastic container, seal, label, date and place in the freezer. Bring to room temperature about four or five hours before use. 

When ready to spread the "paté" on the bread, warm it up in a small casserole, adding further the ¼ cup of Vin Santo and mixing well to make a smooth paste.

If serving warm proceed directly to lightly toasting slices of Tuscan bread (don't remove the crusts). Cut the toasted slices into quarters, spread a generous portion of "paté" on each slice and place on a large serving dish.

COMMENTS

Vin Santo can be readily found in Italian delicatessens, though the quality varies enormously. We prefer to use an industrial/commercial version which tends to be stronger than a Vin Santo sipped as a digestif.

The use of capers stored in salt is just about "de rigueur" for this recipe. Capers stored in vinegar have little to recommend them, not least because of their brassy taste and the fact significantly more are needed to make the dish. Additionally the capers are stored in salt - before using them the salt MUST be rinsed off. The capers do not absorb the salt they are stored in!

It is essential to use the Mouli legumes/Food Mill; the food processor will NOT produce the required consistency, nor will it 'filter out' those parts of the ingredients required for their taste, not their texture.

Tuscan bread is difficult to source outside Italy, but occasionally can be found in Italian delis. Alternatively try our recipe for Pane Toscano. On a number of occasions we have experimented and used an Italian-type bread with a dense interior and a hard crust: one bread in particular substituted quite well, which was encouraging. If you can find Tuscan bread do try it; it has no salt nor any type of fat in it.

               So we would be moving on to the next meal which is,

                                    PASTA WHORE'S STYLE

                                    PASTA ALLA PUTANESSCA

                          

INTRODUCTION

This is another traditional pasta dish where the ingredients can readily be found in the store cupboard and the refrigerator. The name originated, in circular style, from the 1950’s when brothels in Italy were not just legal, but state owned; their employees, in essence, were ‘civil servants’. While it was then a common sight to see Italian housewives shopping daily in food markets the aforementioned ‘civil servants’ only had the opportunity one day a week to make their weekly shop; their cooking style demanded ingredients which would sit happily in the store cupboard. Hence the name of this particular sauce which has the merits of being quickly assembled and being full of flavor. It is best served as a one-dish meal. 

Wine to accompany this dish should be young and red. 

Before starting consider reading Cooking Pasta.

INGREDIENTS

40 g/1½ oz salted capers

130 g/ 4½ oz Kalamata or other black olives (un-pitted)

2 large cloves of garlic

3 – 4 Tablespoons of best quality Olive Oil

3 small tinned anchovies, stored in oil

2 cups of home made passato

8 - 12 large fresh basil leaves

freshly ground pepper, a few twists

300g - 450g/ 10½ – 16 oz of hard spaghetti (e.g. Barilla No. 5)

water for cooking the pasta

a handful of coarse sea salt

2 teaspoons of best quality Olive Oil

INSTRUCTIONS

40 g/1½ oz salted capers

130 g/ 4½ oz Kalamata or other black olives (un-pitted)

2 large cloves of garlic

3 – 4 Tablespoons of best quality Olive Oil

3 small tinned anchovies, stored in oil

2 cups of home made passato

8 - 12 large fresh basil leaves

freshly ground pepper, a few twists

300g - 450g/ 10½ – 16 oz of hard spaghetti (e.g. Barilla No. 5)

water for cooking the pasta

a handful of coarse sea salt

2 teaspoons of best quality Olive Oil

INSTRUCTIONS

A little while before commencing the recipe wash the salted capers and leave them to drain. 

When ready to cook, bring a large stock pot of salted water to a vigorous boil. 

Weigh out the dried pasta and put to one side. 

While the salted water for the pasta is coming to the boil, pit the black olives and coarsely slice. 

Remove the husks from the garlic and coarsely slice. Discard the husks. 

Dry the drained capers. Using a mezzaluna very finely chop the dried capers, the black olives and the garlic and put to one- side. This is the battuto/mire-pois. 

When the water has reached a vigorous boil, add the pasta and stir several times. When the water again reaches a vigorous boil, start the timer and cook for 8 minutes (or as per manufacturer’s recommendation). Stir the pasta well on a few occasions whilst it cooks. 

Immediately after you start the timer for the pasta, start making the sauce. 

Heat the oil (best quality) in a heavy based pan over a low to medium heat. Add the drained anchovies, stirring gently until they 'dissolve' in the oil. Add the battuto/mire-pois. Stir well and cook for a couple of minutes. 

When the battuto/mire-pois has taken a little color, spoon off any excess oil, add the home made passato and stir well. 

Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for about 2 minutes, stirring from time to time to incorporate the passato. 

Put one basil leaf aside. Remove the mid-veins of the remaining basil with a small sharp knife, tear up the leaves and add to the sauce. Stir well. Add a few twists of freshly ground pepper. 

Cook for about a further 2 - 3 minutes or until the sauce has amalgamated. Taste for seasoning. 

Check that the pasta is 'al dente' - if so drain into a large colander. Vigorously shake the pasta in the colander to remove all the water, and empty into a large serving dish. 

Dribble in about two teaspoons of oil and toss very well. 

Add all but circa 2 tablespoons of the sauce to the pasta and toss well. Add the remaining sauce as a pool of sauce in the center of the pasta and decorate with a fresh basil leaf. Serve immediately.

COMMENTS

It is imperative plump, un-pitted, high quality black olives are used in this recipe – pitted olives when stored loose much of their taste. Vacuum-packed ‘Greek-style’ olives are not appropriate for this dish.

Capers packed in salt are preferable to those stored in vinegar; those stored in vinegar give a 'brassy' edge to the sauce. You should find capers stored in salt in your local Italian delicatessen. Remember to wash the capers for up to 10 minutes before starting to cook.

The basil takes the sharp 'edge' off the sauce. Refrain, if possible, from washing the basil – it becomes limp after washing.

As ever use the best quality olive oil that you can find. Remember to spoon off any excess oil after the battuto/mire-pois has ‘taken colour’ and before the passato is added. It is important that the garlic itself cooks to a golden stage, but does not turn brown or burn – this is best done with a little more oil than the sauce itself can support, hence the need to spoon off any excess oil prior to the addition of the passato.